It was in Ian Fleming’s second James Bond e book, 1954’s “Dwell and Let Die,” that 007 ordered his first vodka martini. By the point Bond made it to the massive display in 1962’s “Dr. No” three issues had modified: Bond drank solely vodka martinis, vodka had change into far more well-liked and the precise definition of what vodka might be was codified by the federal authorities.
The unique 1962 definition of vodka put in place by the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Commerce Bureau (TTB) learn: “Vodka is impartial spirits so distilled, or so handled after distillation with charcoal or different supplies, as to be with out distinctive character, aroma, style or coloration.”
And for almost 60 years that was the case. Then, a few 12 months in the past with just about no fanfare, all of that modified. In Could 2021, the TTB quietly modified vodka’s authorized definition to learn “impartial spirits which can be handled with as much as 2 grams per liter of sugar and as much as 1 gram per liter of citric acid” and eliminated the qualifier “with out distinctive style.”. Vodka for the primary time in half a century might (legally) style in a different way.
“We consider the unique TTB vodka definition was dated and never reflective of present vodkas and the a number of elements that they're made out of immediately,” says Brandon Hanson, one of many homeowners and operators of the family-owned Hanson of Sonoma Distillery, which has a tasting room in Sausalito.
“Within the early days of the event of Hanson vodka, we did blind style checks with vodkas distilled from totally different elements and mash payments,” Hanson says. “Though some have been extra impartial than others, there have been clear indications of style profiles reflective of the bottom elements. In consequence, we selected to distill our vodka from 100% grapes.”
Vodka may be made out of any fermentable base materials and is the purest of spirits. Distilled to 190 proof (the very best potential proof attainable in conventional steady stills), three issues have an effect on its last style: the unique supply materials, the 60% of water added after distillation and components. The most important change within the new laws is defining how a lot and what components can be utilized.
“It's broadly identified amongst business insiders, if not customers, that most of the bigger manufacturers — in any respect value factors not simply the underside shelf manufacturers — have relied closely on including sugar, glycerol and/or citric acid to their vodka to enhance the smoothness and perceived viscosity of the spirit on the palate,” says Allison Evanow, founding father of Sq. One Natural Spirits, which was launched and previously headquartered in Novato.
It has been lengthy identified that vodkas undoubtedly do style in a different way, so altering the legislation to replicate that actuality ought to be an excellent factor. The codification of components may not be. The 2 components listed — sugar and citric acid — appear benign, till one considers that sugar can simply be high-fructose corn syrup and that 90% of commercially produced citric acid is made out of a pressure of black mould. And that none of that must be listed on the bottle, besides within the distinctive case of natural merchandise.
“If we didn’t consider we might obtain a singular taste profile to our Sq. One, we might have by no means used 100% natural rye in our vodkas as it's far more pricey to supply than many different uncooked supplies utilized in vodka manufacturing,” Evanow says.
A enterprise level echoed by Hanson, which produces its natural vodka from grapes, and from Susannah Souvestre of Novato’s Alamere Spirits, which produces a vodka made out of French wheat.
“Distillers put a lot thought and energy into the style and really feel of their vodka, however earlier than the change, all of that effort was lowered to having it's outlined as a spirit ‘with out distinctive character, aroma, style,’” Souvestre says. “At Alamere Spirits, we labored so onerous on making a definite vodka that’s totally different from our rivals, having it referred to as tasteless and impartial was simply unfaithful. All craft distillers are producing one thing totally different.”
Distinctive style is what signifies high quality, and smoothness is the other of that. The truth is, clean and generic was what the unique Sixties definition was all about. It has been the trendy client who has fueled the change by searching for out vodkas that did style in a different way. “Wagging the canine” till lastly forcing a change within the governmental definition.
“With immediately’s customers searching for extra transparency within the merchandise they purchase, by altering the authorized definition of vodka to additionally particularly name out that producers can use these components, it should truly assist push producers to be extra clear about what's included of their last bottled spirit,” Evanow says.
Sixty years of product historical past has simply modified, which additionally signifies that your Bond martini has modified together with it. The place’s Fleming if you want him?
Jeff Burkhart is the creator of “Twenty Years Behind Bars: The Spirited Adventures of a Actual Bartender, Vol. I and II,” the host of the Barfly Podcast on iTunes and an award-winning bartender at a neighborhood restaurant. Comply with him at jeffburkhart.internet and call him at jeffbarflyIJ@outlook.com